GariSpec Sell your car
Glossary

Car terms A–Z

Every word you’ll hear at the yard, the port and NTSA — explained in plain English for Kenyan buyers.

Specs & engines

Horsepower (hp, PS, bhp)
How fast the engine can do work — it decides acceleration and overtaking. More horsepower means quicker acceleration at speed and easier overtaking. hp, PS (used in Japanese and European catalogues) and bhp are within a few percent of each other. For Kenya: 70–110 hp suits town driving, 110–170 hp is comfortable everywhere, and 170–250 hp overtakes confidently when fully loaded. Learn more
Torque (Nm)
Twisting force — the shove you feel pulling away, climbing hills or carrying a load. Measured in newton-metres (Nm). High torque at low engine speed makes a car feel strong without revving hard, which is why turbo-diesels are loved for upcountry trips, towing and pickups. Under 180 Nm feels strained up long hills when loaded; 300 Nm and above climbs Mai Mahiu with ease. Learn more
Engine size (cc / litres)
The total volume of the engine’s cylinders: 1,500 cc = 1.5 litres. Bigger usually means more power and more fuel. In Kenya, engine size also sets the excise-duty band on imports and affects insurance: up to 1,500 cc is the cheapest band, and above 3,000 cc petrol or 2,500 cc diesel the most expensive. Learn more
Cylinders (inline-4, V6, V8, boxer)
The chambers where fuel burns to push the pistons. More cylinders run smoother and make more power, but use more fuel and cost more to fix. Inline-4 means one straight row of four (most Japanese cars); V6 and V8 have two angled rows; a boxer engine has two flat rows facing each other (Subaru). Learn more
Turbo (turbocharger)
An exhaust-driven fan that forces extra air into the engine, so a small engine makes big power. Turbos give strong torque low in the rev range — great for hills and loads — but need good oil changed on time and a short idle before switching off after hard driving. Common badges: D-4D and GD-6 (Toyota diesels), TDI, CRDi, DI-D.
Naturally aspirated
An engine without a turbo or supercharger. Simpler and very durable. Most Japanese petrol cars in Kenya — Vitz, Axio, Premio, Harrier 2.0 — are naturally aspirated; their power builds smoothly with revs.
Hybrid (HEV)
A petrol engine plus an electric motor and battery that charges itself as you drive. The electric motor handles stop-start crawling, so hybrids are very economical in Nairobi traffic (Aqua, Fielder Hybrid, Vezel Hybrid). You never plug it in. Ask about the hybrid battery’s health — old batteries can need replacing.
Plug-in hybrid (PHEV)
A hybrid with a bigger battery you charge from a socket for short all-electric trips. For example the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Cheapest to run if you can charge at home; without charging it behaves like a heavier hybrid.
Electric car (EV) and kWh
A car powered only by a battery and electric motor; battery size is measured in kWh. Instant torque, silent, no oil changes. Range depends on the battery size in kWh. Charging at home is cheap per kilometre, but public chargers are still few outside Nairobi and specialist repairs are limited.
Fuel economy (km/L)
How many kilometres the car travels on one litre of fuel — higher is cheaper to run. Factory figures are measured in ideal conditions, so expect less in Nairobi traffic. GariSpec turns km/L into a monthly fuel cost at current EPRA pump prices: at 15 km/L, 1,500 km a month uses 100 litres. Learn more
Ground clearance (mm)
The gap between the road and the lowest part of the car. It matters a lot in Kenya because of tall bumps, potholes and murram. Under 140 mm scrapes often; 150–170 mm is fine on tarmac if you take bumps slowly; 200 mm and above is comfortable on murram and rough estate roads. Learn more
Kerb weight
The weight of the car empty, with all its fluids. Heavier cars need more torque to feel lively and use more fuel; lighter cars feel nimble and are frugal.
RPM
Revolutions per minute — how fast the engine is spinning. Power and torque figures are quoted at an RPM. Diesels make their torque low in the rev range; small petrol engines need more revs to feel strong.
Engine code (e.g. 1NZ-FE, 2GD-FTV)
The engine’s model name, stamped on the engine block. It tells mechanics and spare-parts shops exactly which parts fit, and it is how you confirm a car has the engine the seller claims — compare it with the logbook and the auction sheet.
Timing belt vs timing chain
The part that keeps the engine’s valves and pistons in step. A rubber timing belt must be replaced at the interval in the service book — if it snaps, the engine can be badly damaged. A metal timing chain usually lasts much longer. Ask which one the car has and when it was last done.
DPF (diesel particulate filter)
A filter in modern diesel exhausts that traps soot. It cleans itself on longer, faster drives. Lots of short town trips can clog it, bringing on a warning light and lost power. Ask whether the DPF has given trouble, and give the car regular highway runs.
VVT-i, i-VTEC, SKYACTIV
Brand names for engine technology, usually variable valve timing. They help an engine be both economical and powerful. They are just badges — the specs (hp, Nm and km/L) tell you what matters.

Drivetrain & gearbox

FWD (front-wheel drive)
The front wheels drive the car. Light, economical and predictable — most small cars (Vitz, Axio, Note). Fine on tarmac and light murram. Learn more
RWD (rear-wheel drive)
The rear wheels drive the car. Gives balanced handling in sporty saloons (Mark X, Mercedes C-Class) and older pickups, but less grip on wet or loose roads. Learn more
AWD (all-wheel drive)
All four wheels are driven automatically when grip is needed. Extra grip in the rains and on murram (Subaru Forester and Outback, RAV4, X-Trail 4WD versions). There are no low-range gears, so it isn’t meant for serious off-roading. Learn more
4WD and low range
Four-wheel drive with an extra-low set of gears for steep, rough terrain. True off-roaders — Prado, Land Cruiser, Hilux, Pajero, D-Max — have a transfer case with high (4H) and low (4L) range, and often diff locks. Essential for steep, muddy and rocky tracks. Learn more
Diff lock
Locks the wheels on an axle together so they turn at the same speed. Gets you out of mud or over rocks when one wheel would otherwise spin uselessly. Use it only off-road and at low speed.
CVT
An automatic gearbox with no fixed gears — smooth and economical. Very common on Japanese imports (Axio, Fielder, Vitz, Note, Harrier). Its fluid must be changed on schedule. On a test drive, listen for whining and feel for shuddering or slipping. Learn more
Automatic (torque converter)
A conventional automatic gearbox with fixed gears that changes for you. Robust and smooth; found on bigger SUVs and pickups such as the Prado and Land Cruiser. The easiest choice for Nairobi traffic. Learn more
Dual-clutch (DCT)
A fast-shifting automatic with two clutches. Sporty and efficient on the open road, but it can feel jerky in slow traffic and can be costly to repair. Found on some Volkswagen, Audi and Honda hybrid models. Learn more
Manual gearbox
You change gear yourself with a clutch pedal. Cheap to maintain and gives more control off-road; common on pickups and work vehicles. Tiring in heavy traffic.

Condition & inspection

Auction sheet
The inspection report written when a car is sold at a Japanese auction. It shows the auction grade, interior grade, mileage and a diagram of every scratch and dent — the best record of an imported car’s condition before it left Japan. Learn more
Auction grade
A score for a car’s overall condition at a Japanese auction: 6 or S is near new, 4 is good, R means repaired accident damage. Most Kenyan buyers aim for grade 4 or better with an interior grade of B. A grade R or RA car has had accident repairs — not always bad, but it should be cheaper and inspected carefully. Learn more
Mileage tampering (odometer rollback)
Winding back the odometer to make a car look less used. Compare today’s odometer with the mileage on the auction sheet and the export inspection certificate — mileage can only go up. Worn pedals, seats and steering wheel on a ‘low-mileage’ car are warning signs. Learn more
Chassis number (Japanese frame number)
A Japanese car’s unique ID, like NZE161-1234567, used instead of a 17-character VIN. The part before the dash is the model code — NZE161 is a Corolla Axio or Fielder with the 1NZ-FE engine. It must match the logbook, the auction sheet and the number stamped on the car. Learn more
VIN
The 17-character vehicle identification number. Used on cars built for most markets outside Japan. It encodes the maker, model and year and is the key to history checks. GariCheck decodes VINs and Japanese chassis numbers free. Learn more
Generation / chassis code (e.g. XU60, E12)
The design series of a model. A Harrier XU60 and the newer XU80 are different cars with different engines and parts. When comparing prices and specs, always compare the same generation.
Facelift
A mid-life update to a model — new lights and bumpers, sometimes new technology. Facelift cars often add safety features such as Toyota Safety Sense and fix early problems, and usually cost a little more.
Grade / trim level
The version of a model, such as G, S, Z or Premium. Higher grades add features like leather seats, a sunroof, bigger wheels or better audio. The grade is written on the auction sheet — check the car has what is advertised.

Buying & paperwork in Kenya

Logbook
The official vehicle registration certificate issued by NTSA. It shows the registered owner, the chassis and engine numbers, and any lender with an interest in the car. The numbers on it must match the car. Ownership is transferred online through NTSA on eCitizen.
Joint registration / logbook loan
When a bank or lender is registered on the logbook alongside the owner. The car can’t be transferred until the loan is cleared and the lender releases its interest. Never pay in full for a car with a lender on the logbook until the release is arranged.
Foreign used (ex-Japan, ex-UK)
A used car imported into Kenya and registered here for the first time. It usually comes with an auction sheet and an export inspection certificate you can verify. Japanese-market cars are right-hand drive, like Kenya’s.
Locally used (Kenyan used)
A car that has already been registered and driven in Kenya. Often cheaper, but its Kenyan history matters most: check the service records, the NTSA record and for signs of accident repairs.
Duty paid
KRA import taxes on the car have been paid, so it can be registered. A car advertised as ‘duty not paid’ needs import duty, excise duty, VAT and levies paid before it can be registered — estimate them with the import calculator. Learn more
KRA PIN
Your Kenya Revenue Authority tax number. You need it to register a car or transfer a logbook into your name.
Number plate series (KDA, KDJ…)
Kenyan plates are issued in sequence, so newer letters mean more recent registration. The plate tells you when the car was first registered in Kenya, not when it was made — an older car imported recently still gets a new plate.

Importing a car

8-year rule
KEBS only admits used cars less than eight years from their year of first registration. In 2026 that means cars first registered in 2019 or later, and right-hand drive only. Cars that miss the window are rejected at the port at the importer’s cost. Learn more
CRSP (Current Retail Selling Price)
KRA’s list used to value cars for import tax. Duty, excise and VAT on a used import are calculated from the CRSP value, adjusted for the car’s age — not from the price you paid the exporter. Learn more
Import duty
Tax on the customs value of an imported car. The first tax in KRA’s calculation; excise duty and VAT are then charged on top. Rates are set by the EAC Common External Tariff and Finance Acts, so confirm the current rate with KRA. Learn more
Excise duty
A tax banded by engine size and fuel type. Charged on the customs value plus import duty. Small engines (up to 1,500 cc) sit in the lowest band; large petrol (above 3,000 cc) and diesel (above 2,500 cc) engines in the highest; electric cars have a lower rate. Learn more
IDF and RDL
The Import Declaration Fee and Railway Development Levy — small percentages of the customs value. Charged on almost all imports alongside import duty. The import calculator includes both, with editable rates. Learn more
VAT on imported cars
16% value-added tax. Charged on the customs value plus import duty plus excise duty — so higher duties also increase the VAT. Learn more
Certificate of Roadworthiness (pre-export inspection)
An inspection certificate a used car needs before it is shipped to Kenya. Issued by KEBS’s appointed inspection company (QISJ) for cars from Japan, the UAE, the UK, Thailand, Singapore and South Africa. It records the mileage and roadworthiness — compare it with the odometer.
CIF (cost, insurance and freight)
The car’s price delivered to Mombasa. Japanese exporters usually quote CIF Mombasa. Port charges, clearing, KRA taxes, transport inland and registration all come on top. Learn more
Clearing agent
A licensed agent who clears your car through customs at the port. Handles the KRA entry, port charges and release. Get a written quote and confirm the agent is licensed before paying.

Insurance & finance

Comprehensive insurance
Covers damage to your own car, theft and fire, plus other people’s losses. Required by lenders on financed cars. It is usually priced as a percentage of the car’s value per year, often with a minimum premium, and needs a valuation report. Learn more
Third-party insurance (TPO)
The legal minimum: covers injury and damage you cause to others, not your own car. Cheaper, but you pay for your own repairs after an accident and theft isn’t covered.
Valuation report
An assessment of a car’s market value by an approved valuer. Insurers usually need one for comprehensive cover, and banks need one for car loans.
Asset finance (car loan)
A loan secured on the car, with the lender on the logbook until it is repaid. Expect to pay a deposit (often 10–30%), interest, and comprehensive insurance for the life of the loan. The loan calculator shows the monthly cost. Learn more